Emulating car battery output through home power?

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Jak Nikols
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I'm setting up an amplifier which is intended for use in a car, and I'm not using it in one. I'm trying to power it through a typical DC 250 volt wall outlet. What kind of transformer should I use? (I'm also trying to power a car stereo with it as well)
 
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NascentOxygen said:
You mean 250v AC, I assume?

How many pins does your wall outlet have?
3 pins. 2 regular and the optional ground.
 
Jak Nikols said:
I'm setting up an amplifier which is intended for use in a car, and I'm not using it in one. I'm trying to power it through a typical DC 250 volt wall outlet. What kind of transformer should I use? (I'm also trying to power a car stereo with it as well)

Jak Nikols said:
3 pins. 2 regular and the optional ground.

You buy a power supply module that is already safety approved for the 240 (not 250) Vrms wall AC Mains output, and provides you with the output voltage required by the stereo or other load. What is the input power for the stereo specified for?
 
You need a lot more than a transformer. You need a heavy duty 12v DC regulated power supply; this is a box containing not only a transformer but also transistors, ICs, large capacitors, and more.

If you indicate how many watts your amplfier can put out, I'm sure someone here will be able to say what amp rating the regulated supply will need. If you plan to simultaneously power a second power-hungry device, its power needs must also be included in your calculations before deciding exactly what you need to buy.
 
berkeman said:
You buy a power supply module that is already safety approved for the 240 (not 250) Vrms wall AC Mains output, and provides you with the output voltage required by the stereo or other load. What is the input power for the stereo specified for?
On the page in which I'm buying the stereo from, it doesn't specify what the input power is. It just takes whatever the car battery gives it, hence why I'm wondering to just make a wall output act like a battery.
 
Jak Nikols said:
On the page in which I'm buying the stereo from, it doesn't specify what the input power is. It just takes whatever the car battery gives it, hence why I'm wondering to just make a wall output act like a battery.

So the input voltage is 12V. What is the power output specification of the amp?
 
berkeman said:
So the input voltage is 12V. What is the power output specification of the amp?
The amp is 1,500 watts.
 
Jak Nikols said:
The amp is 1,500 watts.

Holy crap that's a lot of power. I = P/V, so that gives you the specification for the output current from an equivalent DC power supply.
 
Be careful with amp manufacturers specs. There are plenty of ways they can inflate the spec to more than it actually is. If it truly is able to drive 1500 watts into a load then it is unlikely you will be able to find a 12 volt power supply capable of running this amp. If the amp were 100% efficient (it's not) you would need a power source capable of supplying 125 amps.
 
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Jak Nikols said:
On the page in which I'm buying the stereo from, it doesn't specify what the input power is.

Find out what is the current rating of the fuse in its input wire.
Get a supply with current rating at least equal to that of the fuse.

something like this should do
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001YI95EY/?tag=pfamazon01-20

ZAS-RS-70M-0004.jpg
 
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anorlunda said:
A 12v auto battery charger may also provide what you need, and they are relatively inexpensive.

The transformer type charger is not "filtered" so he'd want to add a "supercapacitor" at charger's output. That's available in any car radio shop, even Walmart.
 
jim hardy said:
The transformer type charger is not "filtered" so he'd want to add a "supercapacitor" at charger's output. That's available in any car radio shop, even Walmart.

I would try it first without the filter Jim. The auto 12v environment is very noisy so the amp may have lots of it's own filtering. If it doesn't work well, the capacitor could be added.
 
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P = E^2/R, to deliver 1500W RMS using a 12V supply voltage, the resistance (impedance) of the connected speakers would have to be about 0.1 Ohm. With a more practical 2 Ohm speaker impedance, you would need more than 55V to deliver 1500W.
 
nwaelder said:
P = E^2/R, to deliver 1500W RMS using a 12V supply voltage, the resistance (impedance) of the connected speakers would have to be about 0.1 Ohm. With a more practical 2 Ohm speaker impedance, you would need more than 55V to deliver 1500W.
This really isn't relevant. Car audio amplifiers in this range have built in switch-mode power supplies to step the voltage up to appropriately drive 2 and 4 ohm speakers. I suspect the amp in question is a single channel class D designed to drive a subwoofer.
 
Averagesupernova said:
This really isn't relevant. Car audio amplifiers in this range have built in switch-mode power supplies to step the voltage up to appropriately drive 2 and 4 ohm speakers. I suspect the amp in question is a single channel class D designed to drive a subwoofer.

Ah - The OP is "setting up" an amplifier. Thanks for pointing this out.
 
Well as a low cost solution why not connect a 60 amp battery charger to a car battery and use that . The battery should provide enough filtering.
 
mr166 said:
Well as a low cost solution why not connect a 60 amp battery charger to a car battery and use that . The battery should provide enough filtering.
That would be the cheapest solution by far and, as long as you use fat enough supply leads, it would be truly representative of how that amp is going to work in the car.
Does the amp manufacturer have any recommendations about how to supply the amp when mounted in the car? If they don't then their quoted Peak Power value is pretty suspect.
 
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60 amps times 14 volts is only 840 watts.

1500 watts is still hard to believe. I looked at the owners manual for a 2500 watt car amplifier for a sanity check. It says 2500 watts peak power. It also says "current draw 1.4 amps". It also says that under seat mounting is fine. I believe that the continuous power load is only 17 watts, not 1500 watts. It should be possible to power that amp with only a trickle charger, instead of a welders supply.

http://audiobahn.com/phocadownload/Manuals/Amps/ClassD.pdf

Notwithstanding the above, I have seen cars driving past with the sound so loud that the metal of the roof visibly bounces with each drumbeat. How on Earth can someone sit inside without ruining their hearing in seconds? My own hearing was ruined by a factory job where the noise level was much lower than the music in those cars.
 
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Marketeers have no qualms about outright lying.

To engineers, power rating of an amplifier is its capability at reasonable distortion without overheating.
That would be continuous RMS watts.
Peak power, calculated using the peak instead of RMS voltage and current would be twice that. That's a modest marketing lie.

To marketeers it is permissible to unabashedly lie by advertising the "Peak Instantaneous Power", or "Music Power" .
That is the absolute maximum volts X amps the amplifier can deliver during a transient lasting only an instant , disregarding distortion and duration of the transient.
It'll be probably the sum of all the channels of a multichannel amplifier because that makes the number bigger yet
Some crum-bums will even give a theoretical value that's calculated assuming power supply startup transient voltage !This paper by Texas Instruments explains the "dirty tricks" .
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slea047a/slea047a.pdf
and gives actual test results.
.
Just looking at one of the devices in that paper
• TAS5142 – 4 half-bridges (2 BTL channels or 4 single-ended [SE] channels)
let's use the BTL (bridged) rnumbers

That IC can be rated
87 watts RMS continuous , no clipping (not noticeably distorted )
108.5 watts RMS continuous at 10% distortion
174 watts peak power (twice continuous as mentioned)
318 watts peak instantaneous power using the maximum rated voltage for the device. There being two BTL channels in the device, it could be marketed as 636 watts, maybe even more in some countries.

So - TI's VERY respectable 87 watt per channel bridged digital amplifier should be powered by about a two hundred watt supply, ~15 amps at 14 volts
even if it was bought as a "636 watt" amplifier
That's why i suggested OP look at the fuse.

and it's why i posted that preposterous supply . (well, also partly because i found one last week at my metal recycle yard , cost me 30 cents a pound not quite twelve bucks)

I would be surprised to find OP's "1500 watt" amplifier actually capable of 150 honest watts at 1% distortion.

Check out that TI paper , it's an eye opener.

old jim
 
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Interesting
i just looked at the link anorlunda posted
http://audiobahn.com/phocadownload/Manuals/Amps/ClassD.pdf

that manufacturer publishes RMS watts.

upload_2015-7-21_18-29-3.png
1500 watts into 1 ohm is 38.7 amps
My preposterous supply would be about right for their AT12001DJ

Audiobahn looks like a name to respect.
 
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Agree with your seconds last post, Jim

NONE ... I repeat NONE of these hi power car amps can supply the stated wattage
its all sales hype PMPO Peak Music Power Out blah blah blah
its been a sales con job on customers who know no better for years, like the OFC (oxygen free copper) speaker cables garbage :rolleyes:

in all seriousness you are probably lucky if it produces 700W peak
 
anorlunda said:
Yes Jim, but I think it can supply that much power only in short bursts, like a drum beat. Averaged over time, the current draw is 1.4 amps at 12 volts.

Hmmmm i suppose RMS could be for a millisecond interval at 1khz frequency...

seems over the top, though.
 
jim hardy said:
that manufacturer publishes RMS watts.

upload_2015-7-21_18-29-3-png.86242.png
1500 watts into 1 ohm is 38.7 amps
My preposterous supply would be about right for their AT12001DJ

hmm

450 watts into 4 ohms is 42 volts RMS, 60peak

which means that thing must have a power supply capable of 60volts and almost 40 amps, 2.4KW.
If so , even my preposterous supply would be way undersized for Audiobahn's AT12001DJ .

What size input fuse does it have ?
 
From the manual:

"Due to the power requirements of the amplifier, this connection should be made directly to the positive (+)
terminal of the battery. For safety purposes, install an in-line fuse holder (not included) as close to the
battery positive (+) terminal as possible with an ampere rating not to exceed the total value of fuses in the
amplifier."

Nowhere do they give a specific input fuse value.

There are 4 30A fuses in the 1500W unit. There are 5 30A fuses in the 2500W unit. The units can be bridged.

I have no insights to this monster.
 
meBigGuy said:
From the manual:

Thanks.
The manual never finished loading for me, i was lucky to get to that page i snipped from.It's amazing what one can buy nowadays.
My '49 Buick radio had push-pull 6V6's , capable of maybe twelve watts, with a single 8" speaker . I put in a nice Jensen with 16 oz magnet and it sounded great.
In high school i could name the major US symphony orchestras just by their distinctive sound, over that radio.
Alas , such acute hearing disappears with age.