Have 12v AC, converted to 12v DC, motor slow

[jim hardy]

I could test RPM to 16V and reply with an rpm w/ regulator unpluged, fan on and no bulbs.

that'd be good.

We've got to figure out how to not blow up expensive regulators...

 

[jim hardy]

Mike let's try an aftermarket regulator made for this job

check your "conversation" button...

 

[Mikel_NY]

reg unplugged, no bulb, 16V DC at 2700-2800 engine rpm.

reg plugged in, no bulb, 16V DC at 4500 engine rpm. fan speed at 1860 rpm.

I "assumed" the reg was not working when testing, the voltage would reach 15. For the above test, the voltage climbed until about 15.2 then the regulator was at its controlling limit as the voltage was bouncing all over till it reached high 15V then steady climb with engine rpm to 17V DC. ( I lost engine control, it leaned out a bit) it was at 17V for a very short time, I don't think any damage occurred.

 

[jim hardy]

Good test .

Well, so much for the fans being enough load to hold voltage down !

Caps will take brief overvoltage, no sweat.

Let's see what the aftermarket regulator does... next week...

 

[Texashorsepower]

Hello Gentleman! I just signed up and so far this thread has been a wealth of great information!

I have a snowmobile project almost like this and have some similar questions. I don't however, want to hijack Mike's thread.

Since there has been no additions to this topic for a few months does anyone have an objection to me adding a few questions of my own, directly related to the topic?

Thanks!
Russ

 

[Mikel_NY]

I don't have a problem with a parallel question . I have restarted my conversion and have received a different voltage regulator from Jim and have started rewiring it. I should be done this weekend or next.

 

[Texashorsepower]

In my project I'm converting to HID headlights. Factory setup is (2) 65watt incandescent bulbs.
I have a 2002 Polaris Edge 800 snowmobile. It has the same "clipping" style AC regulator with a half wave rectifier built into send a charge to my 12vdc starting battery.
The battery ground is common to chassis/engine ground.
The hid ballasts (2), each have an input voltage of 9-32VDC, Nominal 12.8VDC @ 3.2A, 6A max draw at startup

Initially I powered the HID lights directly from the 12vdc starting battery but, not sure of the actual charging capacity of the half wave system, drained the battery after a few hours of opperation.

My next line of thinking was if I could run the ac lighting wires through a full wave rectifier and send the rectified dc + & - to the battery to charge better than the half wave output coming from the factory regulator/rectifier. Then the power to the HIDs would continue to be smooth being powered directly off the battery. (I use rectified voltage from the headlight harness to "trigger" a 12vdc relay to provide power to the ballasts from the battery only when the sled is running), just in case you were wondering how the lights would turn on/off.

I do however remember someone saying you CAN NOT have a full wave rectified dc ground be common with an ac system ground so I'm not sure if this idea would work...

I suppose I could try running rectified dc from the headlight harness directly to the HID ballast with some caps parallel on the dc side but I don't think there would be enough capacity for the initial startup amperage required of the ballast.

I appologize if this sounds a little scatter brained, I've been interrupted a couple times while trying to write this post.

As Mike mentioned earlier, I greatly appreciate the chance to learn from those that have worlds of knowlage in this area. I know enough to get me knee deep in a fun project but the information you've provided above is awe inspiring.

Lastly, thank you Mike for letting me get some additional information on top of what I've learned from your project!

Russ

 

[Mikel_NY]

Jim sent me a regulator that changed to an ungrounded stator so both stator wires go directly to the regulator. The regulator has a 3rd wire out that is a 12 v DC positive. That would go to the battery and in my case I will be wireing 12v pos to fan motor, then founding fan 2nd wire to frame ground. The reg body will be grounded as well. The caps these people sized for me will be wired in parallel to the fan load. All this is DC. I will have to find a way to wire the tachometer to stator so it can see the rpm signal. Not clear if that part will work but so far these guys are spot on.

I hope they will stop in and help you out and finish up my project. I have been unexpectedly dealing with family matters and am just getting back working on my project.

Side note to Jim, I have not forgot about it, just sidetracked.

 

[jim hardy]

Hi Mike
i'm still in Idaho with very sparse internet availability... i am relieved you're not waiting on me !

Am thinking "what next" if that Briggs regulator doesn't do the job. Probably we'll have to go to higher voltage caps and a buck regulator, which is way more trouble.

Good Luck, and Thanks for your patience and perseverance.

old jim