Wow i learn something with every project.
I think you lucked out with your motor. I know I'm happy for the lesson...
Every one of these i
ever played with until today had a centrifugal switch to cut out the start winding.
That let's them use a cheap capacitor that's not long lived.
So, i was confused by the schematic - there's no switch to cut out the start winding !
Hmmm i guess the 'psc' by motor means "permanent split capacitor", which a type of split-phase motor where you don't switch out the "start" winding.
That's why they use a 60,000 hour rated capacitor, that's good for around five years continuous use which is not bad for a home appliance.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1658206.pdf
So your task just got a lot easier.
All you have to do is wire the capacitor , which is a RUN capacitor not just a start capacitor, in series with the proper start winding..
Back to your schematic. Took me all day to figure this out...
They use the speed relay to select both the desired run winding and the accompanying start winding.
The schematic shows high speed , agitate
Trace start winding current, orange
It goes like a corkscrew - orange line
down and right through agitate relay then way up then way right then down through another agitate contact
then through speed relay bypassing "lo start" half of start winding
then down into "hi start" half of start winding
then out and up through a third agitate switch ( they used two agitate switch contacts for start winding so they can reverse motor)
then up, way way right and down then left to start(oops - make that RUN) capacitor
then on around through thermal overload and out of washer ( provided lid is closed- see lid switch interlock?)
Whew !
Red run current is a lot easier to trace.
That's high speed.
You want low speed.
So here's all you have to do to your motor.
Get power to low drive winding, and to "lo start" winding through run cap.
EDITED to correct two pin numbers-jh
1. Verify with your ohm meter there's a few ohms between 4 and 3,
a few also between 4 and 7,
and about their sum between 7 and 3.
2. Verify there's no connection between start and either of the run windings.
That tells us we've found start winding where we expected it by schematic.
Yellow wiring i think you can do with just those wires from your plug
twist 7&4 together to replace contact of relay we didnt use - though i think it'd work without doing that (i hope you try and let us know)
one side of capacitor to 2, other side to 3
5 7 and 4 to one side of power cord (i'd put black hot wire there)
1 to other side (white) of power cord
green Earth wire to motor frame
try it out. Don't ignore earthing green wire , safety first.
To make it run backwards , reverse current through start by swapping 3 and 4.
That looks good to me.
If it won't start, put your meter on
highest ohms and hook across cap. It should start at zero and raise slowly. It it reads high
immediately it's lost its capacitance. Try it both ways.
A new run cap won't be expensive. Good electrical supply house will have an assortment of them. Metal can style is okay, just be sure it's a MOTOR RUN not a START cap. I estimate fifteen bucks or less. My last one was seven.
Let us know
and thanks for the lesson, i'll no longer shun those type motors at the junkyard.
old jim
