Water waves travelling from deep to shallow water

In summary, when a water wave travels from deep to shallow water at an oblique angle to the normal, the wavelength will decrease while the frequency remains unchanged due to the same source producing the waves. The amplitude will increase as there is less resistance in shallow water. The speed will also decrease as it is proportional to wavelength and frequency. As a result, the waves will appear larger in height and will move more slowly, but there will be more peaks and troughs in a given distance due to the smaller wavelength.
  • #1
Barclay
208
1

Homework Statement


What happens to the wavelength, frequency and amplitude of the water wave when it travels from deep to shallow water at an oblique angle to the normal?

Homework Equations

The Attempt at a Solution


The wavelength will decrease.

The frequency will be unchanged because the source producing the waves (ocean) will be the same.

The amplitude will increase (because there is less resistance of the wave because there is less water).

Speed will also decrease because speed = wavelength x frequency because wavelength is proportional tp speed if frequency is constant
 
Last edited:
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  • #2
Barclay said:
(because there is less resistance of the wave because there is less water).
I would take exception to this statement/assertion; other than that, looks good.
 
  • #3
Bystander said:
I would take exception to this statement/assertion; other than that, looks good.
Thanks.

So I just want to get it in my head as a picture: As the deep water waves enter the shallow water the waves will appear larger in height (greater amplitude) but will travel more slowly but you will see many more peaks and troughs in a given distance (because the wavelength is smaller).

Here is where I'm confused. How can the frequency of the deep water wave be the same as the shallow water wave if I'm seeing more peaks and troughs because of the smaller wavelength. Maybe its that the waves will just be moving slowly but I will see lots of them?? I think I'm right but can someone just reinforce what I'm saying (if I'm correct) in a different way so I can lock the picture in my head. Thanks
 
  • #4
Yes, they WILL be moving MORE slowly.
 
  • #5
Thanks
 

What causes water waves to travel from deep to shallow water?

The movement of water waves from deep to shallow water is caused by changes in the depth of the water. As waves approach shallow water, the bottom of the wave encounters resistance from the sea floor, causing the top of the wave to continue moving forward and eventually break.

How do water waves change as they travel from deep to shallow water?

As water waves travel from deep to shallow water, their wavelength decreases while their height increases. This is due to the decrease in water depth causing the wave to become steeper and eventually break as it reaches the shore.

What factors affect the speed of water waves as they travel from deep to shallow water?

The speed of water waves as they travel from deep to shallow water is affected by the depth of the water, the wavelength of the waves, and the height of the waves. Generally, as the depth decreases and the waves become steeper, their speed decreases.

What happens to the energy of water waves as they travel from deep to shallow water?

As water waves travel from deep to shallow water, their energy becomes more concentrated due to the decrease in wavelength and increase in height. This can result in larger and more powerful waves as they break on the shore.

How do water waves behave when they reach shallow water?

When water waves reach shallow water, they experience an increase in friction due to the sea floor, causing them to slow down and become steeper. Eventually, the top of the wave will move faster than the bottom, causing the wave to break and release its energy onto the shore.

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