Gearing & Torque: Can My Tricycle Motor Get the Job Done?

AI Thread Summary
The discussion centers on a tricycle motor setup that lacks sufficient torque due to a sprocket size limitation. The user proposes a chain configuration involving a 1-inch to 6-inch to 4-inch sprocket loop, questioning its effectiveness for torque enhancement. Responses indicate that this setup will not achieve the desired torque, as the 6-inch sprocket acts as an idler rather than providing a reduction. To increase torque, a different configuration is suggested, involving a smaller gear connected to a larger gear on an idler shaft. Proper calculations for gear ratios are necessary to determine the final torque output.
drwly
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
I have put together a tricycle, but it only allows for a 4in sprocket on the axel. I have added a motor to the tricycle and do not get enough torque. The motor came with a 6in sprocket, which will not fit on the axil.
My idea is to set it up so the chain goes from the motor 1in to the 6in to the 4in in one continuous loop. WILL this get me the torque I should be getting?
 
Last edited:
Engineering news on Phys.org
drwly said:
I have put together a tricycle, but it only allows for a 4in sprocket on the axel. I have added a motor to the tricycle and do not get enough torque. The motor came with a 6in sprocket, which will not fit on the axil.
My idea is to set it up so the chain goes from the motor 1in to the 6in to the 4in in one continuous loop. WILL this get me the torque I should be getting?
Welcome to the PF.

Can you use the UPLOAD button at the lower right to post a couple pictures of what you are trying to do? :smile:
 
here is the bicycle basic drawing.
 

Attachments

  • bycycle gearing.jpg
    bycycle gearing.jpg
    10.6 KB · Views: 475
drwly said:
here is the bicycle basic drawing.
This configuration will not gain you the torque that you are looking for. The 6" gear in the center appears to be acting as a large idler. To increase the torque you would need to run from the small gear at the right side of your drawing to a larger one on the "idler shaft" this would then create a reduction gear of sorts. Than on the same idler shaft have a parallel smaller gear which is connected to the final shaft on the left side of the drawing.
To do the calculation on this one needs to take each pair independently first and then calculate the final ratio using the two reductions.
 
  • Like
Likes billy_joule
Thanks I rather figured that's the way it would be.
Drwly
 
Posted June 2024 - 15 years after starting this class. I have learned a whole lot. To get to the short course on making your stock car, late model, hobby stock E-mod handle, look at the index below. Read all posts on Roll Center, Jacking effect and Why does car drive straight to the wall when I gas it? Also read You really have two race cars. This will cover 90% of problems you have. Simply put, the car pushes going in and is loose coming out. You do not have enuff downforce on the right...
I'm trying to decide what size and type of galvanized steel I need for 2 cantilever extensions. The cantilever is 5 ft. The space between the two cantilever arms is a 17 ft Gap the center 7 ft of the 17 ft Gap we'll need to Bear approximately 17,000 lb spread evenly from the front of the cantilever to the back of the cantilever over 5 ft. I will put support beams across these cantilever arms to support the load evenly
Thread 'What's the most likely cause for this carbon seal crack?'
We have a molded carbon graphite seal that is used in an inline axial piston, variable displacement hydraulic pump. One of our customers reported that, when using the “A” parts in the past, they only needed to replace them due to normal wear. However, after switching to our parts, the replacement cycle seems to be much shorter due to “broken” or “cracked” failures. This issue was identified after hydraulic fluid leakage was observed. According to their records, the same problem has occurred...

Similar threads

Back
Top