I have questions about an electromagnet coil and the winding technique

In summary, the speaker is seeking advice on building an electromagnet, specifically on winding techniques and insulation to prevent voltage breakdown. They propose using multiple parallel wires to increase amperage and reduce resistance, but are unsure if this is a common practice. They are also experiencing difficulties with winding the coils by hand and are asking for suggestions on how to improve this process. The respondent suggests using formers to separate different voltage sections and minimize voltage changes between layers, and recommends using a tool such as a drill or lathe to create neat winding bobbins. They suggest using materials such as card, plywood, or plastic for the formers and provide instructions on how to make them.
  • #1
Romodoc
3
0
Hi guys, I am building an electromagnet to use mainly for its reaching properties. I want to have a large air gap. I don't care if the magnet can only lift a paper clip but I do care if it can move it from a 15 to 20 cm distance or more. I only have 1 core to work with so my choices are only with the winding technique
I am not an engineer nor do I have any electrodynamics background and the basic questions I already figure out from googling it. This is what I can't figure out from the web, please help.

1.- Can I wind parallel wires in my magnet?, let's say 2, 3 or more at a time? you can see my attachment that shows a red, red/blue, red/blue/green configurations. My reasoning is that if I use 3 I can use 3x the amperage, save winding time and since the length of any individual wire is 1/3 of the traditional winding, it would have less resistance, more electric flow, better magetic field. Does this make sense, and if so, is it regularly done, any pointers in where to look some examples.

2.- Winding the first layer always looks beautiful!, second coming back not so much, third, ugly, from then on, a horrible mess, with huge gaps and air pockets. The reason is I am doing this by hand and my core is so damn heavy. But I also noticed the grooves between wires from the previous layer are oriented at cross angle from the direction of the current layer. This promotes skiping and bigger air pockets. But if I always wind in the same direction and have the wires just fall onto the groves from the previous layer at the same angle, (see the right side of my second attachment), the air between wires is also much smaller. The issue is that with every turn you end up in the same side and need to bridge to the other side to start the next turn. The figure shows layer 1 blue going from left to right, then bridges outside the coil to layer 2 green, then the layer 3 red. The second row of figures shows an exaggerated view of how layers lay onto each other with this and the usual technique and the third row shows a cross section of the wires and the difference in air pockets (in green). Also the wires are closer to the core with each turn in this method. I did this, I am not sure I see a difference, I will troubleshoot this but I wanted to ask smarter people than me to see if some theory will save me some of the time and money I spend doing this empirically.
 

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  • #2
The problem you may encounter is voltage breakdown of the wire insulation. When powered normally with a DC voltage that may not be a problem. But when the power is disconnected there will be a flyback voltage spike. Unless that spike is caught by a power diode across the coil it may breakdown the internal insulation.

Consider winding several coils on formers that can then slide onto your core. That will separate the different voltage sections. It will also mean that voltage changes are minimised between layers inside each winding. The inner terminal wire of each winding should have an insulation sleeve to keep it clear of the core, or the other windings. The formers can be wound on a lathe or hand drill which will make a much neater winding. If you hand feed the wire from the right direction with the right tension it will remain neat.
 
  • #3
Baluncore said:
The problem you may encounter is voltage breakdown of the wire insulation. When powered normally with a DC voltage that may not be a problem. But when the power is disconnected there will be a flyback voltage spike. Unless that spike is caught by a power diode across the coil it may breakdown the internal insulation.

Consider winding several coils on formers that can then slide onto your core. That will separate the different voltage sections. It will also mean that voltage changes are minimised between layers inside each winding. The inner terminal wire of each winding should have an insulation sleeve to keep it clear of the core, or the other windings. The formers can be wound on a lathe or hand drill which will make a much neater winding. If you hand feed the wire from the right direction with the right tension it will remain neat.

Thank you for your advice. What can I use as a former? Can I get the custom made for the dimentions I need? Any tutorial you may point me to?
 
  • #4
I do not have any idea of your coil former dimensions or sectional profile...
In effect you make bobbins out of card joined with glue.

Start by making one short test sleeve that will slide over the core. You will be using several of that size. Next find some tool to wind your coils on, (a drill, lathe or whatever), make a mounting jig on that tool to hold the sleeves while you wind them. Now make more sleeves to fit the jig.

Knowing the depth of the windings you can now make end plates with a hole to fit the sleeves, they will prevent the windings spreading. Glue these end plates onto the sleeves, at right angles to make neat winding bobbins. Lacquer or paint could be used to harden card bobbins, or you could be using a different non-magnetic material such as thin plywood or plastic, get creative.

When set, you mount a bobbin on the jig and then carefully wind that bobbin. The start of the winding will have a short length of wire passing out through a very small hole in the end plate. That will have an insulated sleeve to protect it. Wind neat layers until the required number of turns, then tape, glue of tie off the free end and cut it to length. Put a protective sleeve on that wire also.

Once you have made several windings on bobbins you can slide them onto the core. It will pay to wedge them tightly in position so they don't move. I would use hand carved wooden wedges fixed in place with lacquer. Then join the coils together in series or parallel to satisfy the voltage and current available from your power supply. Make sure you know which way the coils are wound so they can all be arranged to work together in the same direction.

If the bobbins are going to be wired in parallel make sure they each have about the same resistance or length of wire, which if they are neat will be the same number of turns. If they will always be in series then they can all be different.

If you cannot work out what to do, ask a specific question.
You could google “coil winding tutorial” or similar.
 
  • #5


Hello, thank you for reaching out with your questions about electromagnet coils and winding techniques. I can provide some insight and guidance on these topics.

1. Can you wind parallel wires in your magnet?

Yes, it is possible to wind parallel wires in your magnet. This technique is known as bifilar winding and is commonly used in electromagnets. By using multiple wires in parallel, you can increase the overall current and therefore the strength of the magnetic field. However, it is important to keep in mind that the wires must be connected in series to maintain the same current flow. You can refer to online resources or consult with an engineer for specific examples and techniques for bifilar winding.

2. Why does the winding become messy after the first layer?

The issue you are experiencing with the winding becoming messy after the first layer is a common problem when winding by hand. This can be caused by uneven tension on the wires or improper placement of the wires. To improve the winding, it is important to maintain consistent tension on the wires and ensure they are placed tightly against each other without any gaps. You can also try using a winding jig or tool to help with the process. Additionally, it may be helpful to consult with an engineer or watch tutorials online for tips on hand-winding techniques.

I hope this information helps you in your project. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to reach out. Best of luck with your electromagnet!
 

1. What is an electromagnet coil?

An electromagnet coil is a coil of wire that produces a magnetic field when an electric current is passed through it. The strength of the magnetic field can be controlled by varying the amount of current passing through the coil.

2. What is the purpose of an electromagnet coil?

An electromagnet coil is used to create a controllable and strong magnetic field. It is commonly used in a variety of devices such as electric motors, generators, speakers, and MRI machines.

3. What is the winding technique for an electromagnet coil?

The winding technique for an electromagnet coil involves wrapping the wire around a core in a specific pattern to create a tightly packed and efficient coil. This pattern can vary depending on the desired strength and direction of the magnetic field.

4. How does the number of windings affect the strength of an electromagnet coil?

The number of windings in an electromagnet coil directly affects its strength. The more windings there are, the stronger the magnetic field will be. However, there is a limit to the number of windings that can be used as too many windings can cause the coil to overheat.

5. What materials are commonly used for the core of an electromagnet coil?

The core of an electromagnet coil is typically made from a ferromagnetic material such as iron, steel, or nickel. These materials help to concentrate and strengthen the magnetic field produced by the coil.

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