I'm getting shocked Electricity grounding with 2-prong?

AI Thread Summary
Improper grounding of musical equipment can lead to dangerous electrical shocks, as experienced by a musician using a 2-prong piano amp that originally had a 3-prong cord. The discussion emphasizes that ungrounded amplifiers pose significant risks, especially in live performance settings where equipment may be mixed. It is crucial to replace faulty plugs and ensure proper grounding to prevent electrical hazards. Many musicians unknowingly use ungrounded gear, which can amplify the danger when interacting with other musicians' equipment. Seeking professional help for repairs and ensuring all equipment is properly grounded is essential for safety.
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Hi,

My main question is how to ground a 2-prong if the electrical utility originally was a 3-prong, but the grounder fell off?

The story is that I went to this new music studio and played the electric guitar while singing in the mic. The mic shocked me. I guess something wasn't properly grounded. not sure of exact physics.

And this got me thinking, because next week I'm playing an outside gig, and we're using a piano amp as the amplifier for the vocals. and this piano amp originally had a 3-prong cord, but the grounder fell off, and so it's just a 2-prong cord now. (this would mean that it's not grounded i guess)
So, If I'm singing through this, and playing the electric guitar at the same time, I'm guessing that the mic would shock me again. would it?

so, how could i ground this?

thanks
 
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The mic shocked me.
Get used to it. This usually means that the mixer isn't grounded properly. It happens a lot in the biz, and you should really just get used to it. It's usually just a nuisance, but BE CAREFUL: it can be deadly sometimes. Note that the singer from Stone The Crows was killed by a badly grounded system.

As for your particular case, you're correct. The Piano amp is NOT grounded properly and probably shouldn't be plugged in without the third prong.

However, if you have your heart set on playing with that amp, then I guess you can. You may get small shocks, but it shouldn't be anything big. KNOW THAT YOU USE THAT AMP AT YOUR OWN RISK![/size]

Your best bet is to take the amp to an amp store/repair shop or even just get an electrician to replace the plug, it will make sure that it's grounded properly and you can stay safe.
 
To be honest, you will only get a shock if the equipment is actually faulty. Proper Earthing will carry fault current to Earth and save you from an actual shock but there is no reason why you should get a shock from an unearthed device if there are no paths from the supply live to the case or microphone ground.
A proper Power Supply Unit will isolate the LV Electronics from the high voltage Mains. Even when there are valves involved there is no excuse.
It is a problem at gigs where you have to use other people's equipment, of course. If your system is fairly uncomplicated then you should get it checked out for not much money.

An isolating transformer in a supply can remove a lot of the dangers - but they are a bit expensive. I seem to remember the BBC used to supply Bands via isolating transformers. Equipment that is constantly being thrown around in the back of vans is more at risk than static equipment.
 
Not a bad idea.
 
Isn't the third prong there incase the live wire gets loose and touches the device's case. So if you touch the device you will not getting shocked as the third prong will create a short allow the current to flow through. That is what I always thought the third prong was for :S.
 
Do NOT "get used to it" or you may soon be an ex-musician. The plug must be replaced by someone that knows what they are doing. Do not use that amp again until it is repaired. That means not just attaching a plug with a ground prong on it, but also maintaining the polarity of the two flat prongs.

If you went to a music studio and got shocked, either the owner of the studio hasn't grounded his equipment properly or the receptacles were installed improperly WRT polarity. OR, you brought your own guitar amp and that was plugged in ungrounded or with reverse polarity. Never use an ungrounded amplifier, either for vocals or instruments.

I can't tell you how many guitar amps I have seen with the ground lug missing from the plug. When I was running open-mic jams weekly, I'd look over every amp that people brought in, and if they weren't properly grounded, I didn't allow them to be used. I usually had a spare amp around, and would let them use that. Ungrounded musical equipment is a hazard to everyone near it, not just the person playing through it. Remember that your guitar is shielded through the amp's ground, and that your metal bridge and strings are connected to that ground. What's going to happen if you touch another guitarist whose amp is running on reverse polarity to your amp? Bzzt! The dangers are greatly magnified if you are playing while standing on soil or concrete.

If you happen to own an older amp that did not come with a ground lug, you really must get a competent repair-person to replace the power-cord. If you own an older Fender that has a "hum" switch, get your repair person to disable it. It flips the polarity of the amp's power-supply, and once you have a properly installed grounded power cord, that is unnecessary and potentially dangerous.
 
salman213 said:
Isn't the third prong there incase the live wire gets loose and touches the device's case. So if you touch the device you will not getting shocked as the third prong will create a short allow the current to flow through. That is what I always thought the third prong was for :S.

Yours is the correct answer.

The removal of the ground prong with subsequent "shocks" indicates a faulty circuit. The circuit should be fixed, and then the 3 prong plug should be replaced.



Om, electrical safety inspector, USN, 1978-1983
 
OmCheeto said:
Om, electrical safety inspector, USN, 1978-1983

I wonder, where is the ground when you are under water...
 
  • #10
Borek said:
I wonder, where is the ground when you are under water...

I'm sure somewhere there was a pile of dirt with a 6 foot long copper rod buried in it. Though for the life of me, I don't remember ever seeing it. It must have been under the battery.
 
  • #11
Musicians/studios are notorious for removing the ground pin from equipment as a 'quick and easy' solution to ground loops.

OmCheeto said:
I'm sure somewhere there was a pile of dirt with a 6 foot long copper rod buried in it.
That must limit the range of operations slightly ( I think Borek was referring to the N part of USN)
 
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  • #12
mgb_phys said:
Borak

Please, Borek, not Borak nor Borat
 
  • #13
Borek said:
Please, Borek, not Borak nor Borat
Pass the horse-urine beverage, please. :-p
 
  • #14
Borek said:
Please, Borek, not Borak nor Borat
Sorry typo (result of typing one handed on a tablet with a coffee in the other hand)

ps. I understand how you want to keep your film career separate - avoid the paparazzi and so on, hence the disguise.
 
  • #15
mgb_phys said:
Musicians/studios are notorious for removing the ground pin from equipment as a 'quick and easy' solution to ground loops.

From the sounds of the scope of this problem, I'm starting to think that maybe the nerds purposely design the equipment to kill musicians. They do after all, get their money for nothing, and their chicks for free.
 
  • #16
Musicians who are scraping by and playing dives would often snap the ground lug off the plug when they had to play in a place that was wired long ago. Even worse, there was a long gap in the US when receptacles were not polarized, and the plugs on old amps had power lugs of the same size. This presented some dangerous situations. It is not surprising that amp technicians called Fender's "hum switch" the "death switch", since you could be working next to another musician whose amp/instrument setup was quieter with a polarity exactly opposite to yours. Not good.

BTW, for any musician with an urge to re-wire their own amps, please reconsider. Especially with older tube amps. You will need to replace zip-cord with fat 3-conductor cords, which means that you'll need a heavy reamer to enlarge the holes that the power cords enter through. You'll need the press-in restraints that hold the cord, and protect the cord's insulation from abrasion so that the conductors in the cord don't contact the chassis of the amp. Most of all, you'll need some smarts to figure out when some amp is designed in a way that can be very dangerous to the user when you touch switches or try to replace fuses. Fender was very bad at these things, though their amps were popular.
 
  • #17
Do NOT "get used to it" or you may soon be an ex-musician.

You still have to get used to it, as a solid 10-15% of the places you play will shock you, from THEIR mixers and so forth...
 
  • #18
Wetmelon said:
You still have to get used to it, as a solid 10-15% of the places you play will shock you, from THEIR mixers and so forth...

It might be wise to (make repairs and) avoid unsafe situations?
 
  • #19
Wetmelon said:
You still have to get used to it, as a solid 10-15% of the places you play will shock you, from THEIR mixers and so forth...
Or form a 50s rock tribute band and all wear crepe soled shoes?
 
  • #20
For Pete's Sake yes, get it fixed.

I'll make it easy. http://xkcd.com/730/" .
 
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  • #21
turbo-1 said:
If you went to a music studio and got shocked, either the owner of the studio hasn't grounded his equipment properly or the receptacles were installed improperly WRT polarity. OR, you brought your own guitar amp and that was plugged in ungrounded or with reverse polarity. Never use an ungrounded amplifier, either for vocals or instruments.

"Polarity" has nothing to do with it. The way Line and Neutral happen to be connected will make no difference whatsoever to the situation in properly working equipment. The reason that the line and neutral should be connected correctly is that there is less possibility of shock if there happens to be a fault in the equipment - i.e. a path from a part of the circuit at high voltage to ground. Both live and neutral should, in any case, be isolated by the power supply circuitry (transformer) from the equipment ground / Earth and from any other equipment that may be connected.
What is very important, however, is that the line and neutral of the actual supply should not be reversed (i.e. the polarity must be preserved through any distribution leads and splitters). This is so that any fuse will be in the live leg of the supply and can be relied upon to cut mains volts from further downstream when it blows. If the fuse turns up in the neutral leg, the current will be interrupted but parts of the equipment will still be live even though the equipment is nominally 'disconnected'.
A residual current circuit breaker will always prevent any more than an annoying, slight shock, and will refuse to turn on if there is any (>a few mA) leakage to ground.

If the same rules applied to electronic musical equipment as are applied to 'site' equipment, then no one would tamper with their own gear and safety would be much improved. I would go so far as to say that anyone who doesn't appreciate what has been written on this thread and who can't distinguish the correct from the incorrect information shouldn't be let anywhere near a screwdriver and wire cutters. I should have thought that the terms of insurance for public events would be scary enough to discourage ignorant tampering . . . .
 
  • #22
sophiecentaur said:
"Polarity" has nothing to do with it.
That is incorrect and it is dangerous misinformation. In grounded amps, the ground is tied to neutral. If the receptacle your amp is plugged into was wired improperly, the amp's chassis will be referenced to "hot" not "neutral". If you are using an older amp with a "hum" switch, it is used to switch your amp's ground reference between "hot" and "neutral". This is very common on Fender tube amps. My favorite little tube amp is a Fender Vibro Champ with an un-grounded and non-polarized plug (both prongs the same size). I have taped a tiny diagram to the plug to make sure that I always plug it in with proper polarity at home, and I NEVER played out with it.

Mix-and-match polarity on stage or in the studio (regardless of cause) is dangerous. If you're a guitarist and you get crossed up with a "hot" mic or come in contact with another guitarist or bassist with improperly grounded or polarity-referenced gear, you can get significant, even deadly shocks. There is a reason that professional musicians' amp-techs re-wire Fender fuse-holders and disable hum-switches (death switches) - protecting the lives of the musicians that they work for.

For any posters here that doubt the veracity of my information, head out to a Borders or other big book store, and browse Dave Funk's "Tube Amp Workbook", Aspen Pitman's "The Tube Amp Book", or any of Gerald Weber's excellent books on guitar amplifiers. These authors cannot afford to get it wrong, for liability reasons at a minimum.

If you are a musician, you owe it to yourself to learn enough about electrical safety to know when you are out of your league and need expert advice, so you'll seek appropriate service from people who know what they're doing. Not from posters on on-line forums with no service experience.

And remember, if you are counting on a fuse to save you from a fatal shock, your heart can stop before the fuse blows, especially if some wing-nut has replaced the amp's fuse with one of a higher value and/or a slower "blow-time". Another reminder: When you are playing electric guitar, your picking and fretting fingers are at the same ground potential as your amp. Your guitar is ground-referenced through the ring-connection of your guitar cord to the chassis of your amp. If you touch something that is not at that same ground potential, some current will flow. If it's a little, you may not notice. If it's a lot, it can kill you.
 
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  • #23
turbo-1 said:
...In grounded amps, the ground is tied to neutral...

So what happens when this amp is plugged into a GFCI outlet?
 
  • #24
Averagesupernova said:
So what happens when this amp is plugged into a GFCI outlet?
Your point is? Have you ever played in a club when the receptacles on the stage were CFGI's. I have been playing music for over 40 years and have never encountered one.

Your deflection of this topic is not relevant.
 
  • #25
turbo-1 said:
If the receptacle your amp is plugged into was wired improperly, the amp's chassis will be referenced to "hot" not "neutral".
I have had first hand experience with this situation while playing in bands. I've even experienced this where home owners put in their own circuits where switches are wired to switch of the neutral, leaving the device hot. Good way to see a few sparks.
 
  • #26
turbo-1 said:
Your point is? Have you ever played in a club when the receptacles on the stage were CFGI's. I have been playing music for over 40 years and have never encountered one.

Your deflection of this topic is not relevant.

Cool your jets. I asked a simple question. If you want me to assume you don't know what you are talking about (or at the very least don't know what would/should happen if it is plugged into a GFCI), then your reply has done just that. I don't care how many clubs you've played in and I don't care if you've never seen a GFCI in a club. My point is (since you asked) is that anything that has the ground and neutral tied together and is plugged into a GFCI, the GFCI will trip. And anything that trips a GFCI when plugged into one is UNSAFE.
 
  • #27
dlgoff said:
I have had first hand experience with this situation while playing in bands. I've even experienced this where home owners put in their own circuits where switches are wired to switch of the neutral, leaving the device hot. Good way to see a few sparks.
And when the club's owner hires an unlicensed family member to add some receptacles around the stage. I ran open-mike jams in two taverns, after I checked every single outlet in the place. I would not accept that responsibility without performing due diligence. There is some pretty loose and inaccurate "advice" being handed out in this thread and I don't think that Greg should be exposed to any liabilities that might result.
 
  • #28
turbo-1 said:
Your point is? Have you ever played in a club when the receptacles on the stage were CFGI's. I have been playing music for over 40 years and have never encountered one.

Your deflection of this topic is not relevant.

I disagree. Being shocked is what GFCI's were designed to prevent. And that is what the OP is complaining about.

If there are any musicians out there with amps designed to kill you, please join the PF postcard club, send me your amp, and I'll fix it for free. Shipping and insurance on such antiquated stuff not included.
 
  • #29
Averagesupernova said:
Cool your jets. I asked a simple question. If you want me to assume you don't know what you are talking about (or at the very least don't know what would/should happen if it is plugged into a GFCI), then your reply has done just that.
You will never find such a ground-fault receptacle on any stage in any tavern or club. That would be ideal, but you will never see it. Bands come and go, with no discipline, for the most part, and no venue would possibly re-wire such that entire sections of the band would drop out on a whim.

I'm not trying to be a jerk. I'm trying to convey some safety information that might possibly save a member from a serious injury or death. It's not a matter of argumentation. It's a matter of safety, and it's a matter of proper appreciation of the US electrical wiring system.
 
  • #30
OmCheeto said:
If there are any musicians out there with amps designed to kill you, please join the PF postcard club, send me your amp, and I'll fix it for free. Shipping and insurance on such antiquated stuff not included.
I have already fixed countless amps and made them safe for their users, including old Gibson and Gretsch point-to-point circuit amps that are a "little" bit tougher to test and service than tag-board, and PCB amps.

If you want to encourage complacency until somebody dies, that's your look-out.

Convincing venues to convert all their receptacles to ground-fault standards? Priceless, and NEVER HAPPEN.
 
  • #31
DaveC426913 said:
For Pete's Sake yes, get it fixed.

I'll make it easy. http://xkcd.com/730/" .

Drats Dave! Where was this circuit the other day when I was playing homework helper?

oms_worst_putdown_ever.jpg
 
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  • #32
turbo-1 said:
I have already fixed countless amps and made them safe for their users, including old Gibson and Gretsch point-to-point circuit amps that are a "little" bit tougher to test and service than tag-board, and PCB amps.
Good!
If you want to encourage complacency until somebody dies, that's your look-out.
The kids amp is shocking him! I told him it was unsafe at any voltage! I told him to send it to me and I'll fix it! How is that encouraging complacency?! Ahhhhh!
Convincing venues to convert all their receptacles to ground-fault standards? Priceless, and NEVER HAPPEN.

Yah. Might be boring to go to all acoustic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/j1qb1CA3a88&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/j1qb1CA3a88&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
 
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  • #33
OmCheeto said:
Good!The kids amp is shocking him! I told him it was unsafe at any voltage! I told him to send it to me and I'll fix it! How is that encouraging complacency?! Ahhhhh!
There has been a ton of misinformation and down-playing of risk in this thread. It is wrong! I appreciate that you have offered to fix his amp, but he's not going to ship it to you, and against the background of the obviously erroneous information posted by some people on this thread, he might think that it's OK to get zapped from time to time, as long as he doesn't die. If he does, that's a moot point.

I would also offer to rehabilitate and upgrade any amplifier that any member would ship to me with guaranteed return shipping, and simple parts (no labor) charges, for safety purposes. Not a problem. I can't tell you how many amps from the 50's through the 70's (tube amps are my love) I have stripped, modified, and rehabilitated. Every time, I would not let any owner claim that "originality" trumped safety. If somebody wanted me to tune an amp and said that I couldn't re-wire the fuse holder (Fenders are the worst here) during the service, I would tell him to take it to someone else. Bye!
 
  • #34
41PoSuePdNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
  • #35
Turbo I never said "ALL STAGES SHOULD USE GFCIs!" My point is that if a GFCI won't run something without tripping it should not be run without a GFCI either. I don't think anyone in this thread is harping on safety as much as you are yet you seem to miss a lot of points. Hell, you even point blank asked me:
Your point is?
 
  • #36
Averagesupernova said:
I never said "ALL STAGES SHOULD USE GFCIs!"
Sorry to break into someone's argument but all stages SHOULD have GFI's.
I'm surprised it isn't a code requirement even for existing public venues - of course I'm not surprised that most stages don't
 
  • #37
It's ok MGB. I was just trying to keep Turbo on track with what I was saying. I'm not up on commercial code so I don't know if new construction requires GFCIs in such places or not. To be honest I would be surprised if it didn't. I'm amazed by what Turbo has said about how some of these amps are constructed. Ground and neutral tied together IN the amp? That's just asking for disaster in my book. A GFCI wouldn't run that amp for a millisecond with good reason.
 
  • #38
I've built CCD electronics with ground and neutral tied in the equipement.
I've also fitted switches to allow the case to float or be earthed.

For very low noise level electronics in odd environments it's trial and error what should be earthed to what, especially when you have conducted, inducted and radiate noise. Of course if you give the occasional astronomer a shock - it just teaches them not to touch the hardware.
 
  • #39
mgb_phys said:
Of course if you give the occasional astronomer a shock - it just teaches them not to touch the hardware.

:smile: That killed me mgb.

I didn't read the rest of the thread (apologies), but I'm pretty sure the NES in the US requires connecting Earth and Neutral at the panel, and nowhere else. But I could be wrong.
 
  • #40
turbo-1 said:
That is incorrect and it is dangerous misinformation. In grounded amps, the ground is tied to neutral. . . . . . . .

I have just got back to read this statement. I am totally amazed at what you say. It can't be UK practice. Can the US be such a lethal place?
Do you realize that the implication of this is that if the Neutral on the feed becomes damaged or disconnected then the equipment load appears in SERIES with the person holding it, connected to the Live, the only path to ground being through the player's body. Almost the whole of the supply volts appear across the player. There is no 'safety net for this, at all, unless someone else happens to touch it first.
How could the Neutral become disconnected? Somebody steps on the plug and snaps off a pin, then plugs it in without looking too closely. Or, someone wrenches the cord and pulls out the Neutral from the pin, inside the plug.

There are other ways of eliminating Hum Loops than deliberately exposing people to mortal danger. Transformers don't cost that much and optical coupling kills Earth Loops stone dead.
 
  • #41
That's the common practice in US-built amps. It was worse earlier on. The most popular vintage amps here are Fenders. I have rehabilitated, restored and made safety improvements to dozens of them. Tweeds are the touchiest, since most owners want them 100% original. I wouldn't service them if the owners wouldn't let me make safety improvements. The Black-Face series was marginally better, but still didn't come with grounded plugs. Ditto with cord replacement. If an owner wanted me to fine-tune and voice his amp, but wouldn't let me reverse the connections on the fuse holder and replace the power cord with a grounded one, I wouldn't do ANY work on the amp. By the time Fender started making Silver-Face amps, there were some minor improvements in electrical safety, but progress over those 3 decades was very slow.

Still, the convention is to ground the power supply to the chassis, and use chassis ground as part of the signal path, so that the rings (outer conductor) of the guitar cord are at ground potential, as are the strings, bridge, and internal shielding of any guitar plugged into the amp. Things may be different today, since I have been out of the amp-repair business for ~15 years or so, but I'd be surprised if they were.

Edit: I would like to know if British amps are configured any differently, because Marshalls were almost direct copies of the Fender Bassman, at first, and Vox (although single-ended and hot-running) were configured similarly with respect to tying neutral to ground.
 
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  • #42
turbo-1 said:
Edit: I would like to know if British amps are configured any differently, because Marshalls were almost direct copies of the Fender Bassman, at first, and Vox (although single-ended and hot-running) were configured similarly with respect to tying neutral to ground.

In the UK we have this thing called Type Approval and "they're" very hot on electrical safety. It would really surprise me if you could even import such dangerous kit.
I'm also surprised that someone hasn't had their arses sued, in the US, over the accidents that must have happened.
I just don't understand what's wrong with a Transformer. Would it be such a major increase in the price of something which is, in any case, already over-priced?
 
  • #43
sophiecentaur said:
In the UK we have this thing called Type Approval and "they're" very hot on electrical safety. It would really surprise me if you could even import such dangerous kit.
I'm also surprised that someone hasn't had their arses sued, in the US, over the accidents that must have happened.
I just don't understand what's wrong with a Transformer. Would it be such a major increase in the price of something which is, in any case, already over-priced?
I don't think they have to be imported. I just looked up a schematic of a reissue Marshall amp last revised in 2003. They still seem to follow the conventions established by Fender decades ago. Notice that the power input ground (chassis ground) is the same as the preamp ground, and it is used as the return path for the inputs, which are also at the same ground potential. The option of switching input power polarity in such a system is not dangerous in and of itself for an individual amplifier, but for multiple amplifiers and PA equipment on a stage, it poses safety problems, since various amplifiers, mics, guitars, etc can end up at different ground potentials and the threat of shocks is very real.

http://www.schematicheaven.com/marshallamps/marshall_2203_reissue.pdf
 
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  • #44
We use 240 volts in Australia and Australian lives are valuable (and expensive if you wreck one.)... :)
We have this system:

[PLAIN]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4222062/electrical%20wiring.PNG

Imported Audio Visual equipment has no ground connection but it is in plastic cases and has an isolating power supply. Any exposed metal is isolated from the mains, but is not grounded.

If it is common practice to connect neutral to metal cases of amplifiers in a country where many mains plugs are reversible, I would be wearing rubber gloves.
 
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  • #45
The US wiring codes are pretty much the same.
The problem comes when you have equipment from the 50s/60s that has been re-wired numerous times by generations of musicians/roadies with different levels of skill.

Then there's the stuff that was hastily modified on stage to solve a ground hum in the venue with a couple of extra outlets put in by the owner's brother-in-law.

I worked in the lab in a major university where the world famous physicist had fitted an extra outlet by simply knocking a hole in a wall and plugging an extension cord into a spare socket in another lab. Unfortunately the other lab was a different phase, so the computer and monitor were a mere 415V apart.
 
  • #46
I don't see that the schematic of the Marshall amp is strange at all. This is pretty common practice. Neutral is kept isolated from conduit ground as it should be. The fact that signal grounds are tied to conduit ground is a good thing for safety as far as I'm concerned. Why should these grounds be treated any differently than any other metal chassis part of something that plugs into the wall? If the human body routinely touches it and it's metal and part of something that plugs into the wall, it needs to be tied to conduit ground.
 
  • #47
Averagesupernova said:
The fact that signal grounds are tied to conduit ground is a good thing for safety as far as I'm concerned. Why should these grounds be treated any differently than any other metal chassis part of something that plugs into the wall?
Because it can cause mains hum and ground loops.
The correct solution is to have all the signal grounds connected to a separate star ground and connect those together to a single reference point as well as having all the screened leads between instruments only connected at one end.
A real world solution on stage is just to cut the Earth line off the plug.
 
  • #48
I never said there was no chance of noise. BTW, I took Turbos word for it that the inputs ground is referenced to conduit ground. However, I don't actually see this on the schematic. I would assume it is the node that is the low side of gain pot, presence pot and volume pot but I don't see it actually referenced on the schematic. I also notice that all output tubes except V4 have the control grids connected to the cathode (conduit ground). This must be a mistake on the schematic?

Edit:
The option of switching input power polarity in such a system is not dangerous in and of itself for an individual amplifier, but for multiple amplifiers and PA equipment on a stage, it poses safety problems, since various amplifiers, mics, guitars, etc can end up at different ground potentials and the threat of shocks is very real.

I don't see it that way. Obviously it's a bad idea to switch the hot and neutral on account of the fuse ending up in the neutral, but if all equipment on stage has a power transformer configured the way the Marshall amp is, it won't make any difference concerning grounds ending up at a different potential. I'd like a schematic posted of an amp that has the neutral and ground tied together in the amp. Turbo, can you provide? :)
 
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  • #49
We are clearly talking at cross purposes in this thread.
The schematic in the earlier post shows a transformer between the equipment and the 'mains'. That's fine.
But there have been statements about DIRECT connection of the Mains Neutral to parts of the circuit. I still can't believe that anyone would ever do that - at least in modern times. Is there a published schematic of this practice?
 
  • #50
But there have been statements about DIRECT connection of the Mains Neutral to parts of the circuit. I still can't believe that anyone would ever do that - at least in modern times. Is there a published schematic of this practice?

The neutral has to connect somewhere. The hazard comes when it is connected to the exposed metal parts of the device.
This would be madness, especially as the American 2 pin plug comes in an unpolarized version which would give you a 50% chance of getting the mains active on exposed metal surfaces, including microphones.
 
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