Making a solar cell phone charger

AI Thread Summary
A user is repurposing a small solar panel (8W, 17V) to create a solar charger for phones and USB devices. They successfully assembled a 5VDC regulator kit and are considering connecting multiple USB ports. Concerns were raised about the current output, with calculations indicating a maximum output of 470 mA, which is significantly lower than the 2A output of standard chargers. It was suggested to consider using a battery pack for more versatility and to attach a heatsink to the regulator due to heat generation. The setup is functioning well for charging a portable phone charger.
eddie90
Messages
48
Reaction score
1
Good day everyone,

So I have a spare solar panel that has been laying around and I want to put it to use. Its a small panel, about 8"X12". The specs read 8 Watts and 17 Volts

I was thinking of maybe making a solar charger for phones and other 5VDC USB devices.

I bought a 5VDC regulator kit, soldered it together and got it to work with the panel
This is the kit:
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/5v-regulator-board-kit/508/

Next I want to hook the output up to a set of maybe 2 or 4 USB ports. I can get these off an old computer or other device.

My question is, how do I know how much current this thing will output at 5VDC?
I know my factory cell phone charger outputs 2000ma or 2 amps.
How do I know that this setup will not output more than that and damage the device being charged.
Or is this setup even strong enough to go up to 2 amps?

Is there a way to test for this?

Thank you and sorry for the long post

-Eddie
 
Engineering news on Phys.org
Borg said:
There are a bunch of designs for this at this site - http://www.instructables.com/howto/solar+panel+charger/

With respect to the power requirements, some of them use the solar panel to charge a battery pack - http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-USB-Charger-20-21/
I had not thought about charging a battery pack. That might be better, it is not limited to providing power only while under the sun.

I will look at these examples in detail tonight when I get home

Thank you!
 
The specifications for the PV is; 17V, 8W. The current will be ( 8W / 17V ) = 0.47A.
The regulator is a linear regulator so Iin = Iout.
The maximum current out will therefore be 470 mA.

The voltage drop across the regulator will be 17Vin – 5Vout = 12V
The regulator will therefore dissipate power ( 12V * 0.47A ) = 5.64W
Maybe you should consider a heatsink if the regulator gets hot.
 
Baluncore said:
The specifications for the PV is; 17V, 8W. The current will be ( 8W / 17V ) = 0.47A.
The regulator is a linear regulator so Iin = Iout.
The maximum current out will therefore be 470 mA.

The voltage drop across the regulator will be 17Vin – 5Vout = 12V
The regulator will therefore dissipate power ( 12V * 0.47A ) = 5.64W
Maybe you should consider a heatsink if the regulator gets hot.

The regulator chip did did begin to get a little hot so I did attach a small heatsink to it.
I am using it to charge a portable phone charger that itself is charged with 5V

Seems to work just fine now.

Thank you!
 
Hi all I have some confusion about piezoelectrical sensors combination. If i have three acoustic piezoelectrical sensors (with same receive sensitivity in dB ref V/1uPa) placed at specific distance, these sensors receive acoustic signal from a sound source placed at far field distance (Plane Wave) and from broadside. I receive output of these sensors through individual preamplifiers, add them through hardware like summer circuit adder or in software after digitization and in this way got an...
I am not an electrical engineering student, but a lowly apprentice electrician. I learn both on the job and also take classes for my apprenticeship. I recently wired my first transformer and I understand that the neutral and ground are bonded together in the transformer or in the service. What I don't understand is, if the neutral is a current carrying conductor, which is then bonded to the ground conductor, why does current only flow back to its source and not on the ground path...
I have recently moved into a new (rather ancient) house and had a few trips of my Residual Current breaker. I dug out my old Socket tester which tell me the three pins are correct. But then the Red warning light tells me my socket(s) fail the loop test. I never had this before but my last house had an overhead supply with no Earth from the company. The tester said "get this checked" and the man said the (high but not ridiculous) earth resistance was acceptable. I stuck a new copper earth...
Back
Top