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german_cargo
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- Hybrid Vehicle help
Summary: Hybrid Vehicle help
I'm having a problem with my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid project. There is a small Motor Electronics Cooling pump that isn't working, and after a while it over heats, trips a sensor, and the computer puts the car into limp mode until it cools off. I have a Factory Service Manual for the car and followed the diagnosis steps checking voltages and grounds, and based on the steps I've followed there is a problem within the circuit within the huge wiring harness that comes off the firewall.
So that's all fine and good -- my plan is to just bypass the harness with a new wire. According to the FSM, the component is supposed to be running 100% of the time the vehicle is on, so I can wire it in really simply and there isn't even a relay I have to hit. My plan is to go from the fuse in the power distribution center straight to the pump.
Here is where I'm running into issues: When I get temporary wiring and aligator clips and connect directly to the 12 volt car battery, the pump doesn't spin. This is the 2nd pump I've bought that won't spin either installed in the vehicle with coolant in it or on a bench. Originally I thought maybe the ground was bad, but with my multimeter and a test light I confirmed that the pins on the connector for the pump are getting 12 volts.
The FSM doesn't have any instructions on how to test the motor by itself. Have I managed to buy two defective pumps in a row, or am I missing something? Is there a reason why a car battery hooked up to the pump directly wouldn't make it spin besides the pump being faulty?
I'm having a problem with my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid project. There is a small Motor Electronics Cooling pump that isn't working, and after a while it over heats, trips a sensor, and the computer puts the car into limp mode until it cools off. I have a Factory Service Manual for the car and followed the diagnosis steps checking voltages and grounds, and based on the steps I've followed there is a problem within the circuit within the huge wiring harness that comes off the firewall.
So that's all fine and good -- my plan is to just bypass the harness with a new wire. According to the FSM, the component is supposed to be running 100% of the time the vehicle is on, so I can wire it in really simply and there isn't even a relay I have to hit. My plan is to go from the fuse in the power distribution center straight to the pump.
Here is where I'm running into issues: When I get temporary wiring and aligator clips and connect directly to the 12 volt car battery, the pump doesn't spin. This is the 2nd pump I've bought that won't spin either installed in the vehicle with coolant in it or on a bench. Originally I thought maybe the ground was bad, but with my multimeter and a test light I confirmed that the pins on the connector for the pump are getting 12 volts.
The FSM doesn't have any instructions on how to test the motor by itself. Have I managed to buy two defective pumps in a row, or am I missing something? Is there a reason why a car battery hooked up to the pump directly wouldn't make it spin besides the pump being faulty?