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Mattius_
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Why/how do waves work??
a basic question to many here, i was just wondering how nature organizes itself into waves...
a basic question to many here, i was just wondering how nature organizes itself into waves...
Originally posted by Mattius_
a basic question to many here, i was just wondering how nature organizes itself into waves...
Waves are created in nature through a disturbance or energy transfer in a medium, such as water, air, or even solids. This disturbance causes a ripple effect, where particles in the medium move up and down or back and forth, creating a wave.
The size and speed of waves are affected by various factors such as wind speed, wind duration, and the distance over which the wind blows. The shape and depth of the body of water also play a role in determining the size and speed of waves.
Waves travel over long distances by transferring energy from one particle to another. As the energy moves through the medium, the particles themselves do not move with the wave. Instead, it is the energy that moves, causing the wave to travel over long distances.
Waves break when they reach shallow water, causing the bottom of the wave to slow down while the top continues to move at the same speed. This causes the wave to become unstable and eventually break. The shape and slope of the ocean floor also play a role in wave breaking.
Waves have a significant impact on shaping the shoreline. As waves approach the shore, they break and move sediment, such as sand and rocks, along the coastline. This process is known as erosion, which can create new landforms and change the shape of the shoreline over time.