For similar applications, we used terminal blocks (that's a more generic term: the specific one in this case is probably barrier strip), similar to these ones, though many manufacturers make similar products:
http://www.marathonsp.com/DoubleRow.html
The thought of crimping / soldering a bunch of tiny jumper wires may not be so appealing, so you should buy the little jumpers that bridge between two (and sometimes more) adjacent positions (your local electronics supplier should have them next to the blocks, if not, ask a sales guy). Properly chosen crimps will fit right on top of them. For instance:
http://www.marathonsp.com/TBAccessories.html
As for fuse holders, you can get ones that look pretty close to the barrier strips I linked to above. Most of the fuse manufacturers (Littelfuse, Cooper Bussmann, etc.) will sell fuse holders that can hold multiple fuses (sometimes called fuse blocks or fuse panels), and have various types of connections, from screw-down to blade-type connection. From the same manufacturer:
http://www.marathonsp.com/HK250Datasheets.html
All that said, this may be of interest to you (note the term 'common feed', and the fact that it uses fast-ons / blade connectors):
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=ATO-FB8CF
Now, one thing you
HAVEN'T mentioned, but which you should give thought to is: what type of crimp will you use (spade, spade with little prongs that stick up to ensure they don't slip out, etc., ring), and how are you going to attach your wire to it (solder, crimp, solder + crimp, etc.)?
For the first question, there's a bit of a trade-off between how secure the connection is (meaning how likely crimps are to come loose) and how much time you want to spend undoing screws. I find the spades with the prongs raised at the end a nice compromise, but you'll have to figure that out for yourself. Of course, if you end up using the fast-ons (a.k.a. blades, quick connects, etc.) you don't have to worry about undoing anything, but they can come loose a whole lot easier than the other ones will. If you make/break a connection a lot, you may need to 're-tension' the female blade with some pliers.
As for the second point, I find a
PROPER crimp to be quick to make, strong, secure, and long-lasting. Find money to save elsewhere: spend money on a set of proper ratcheting crimpers (between ~$30-50 and $200, you probably want the lower range of the spectrum) instead of the plier-style ones. And make sure to actually follow the wire stripping / insertion instructions on the outside of the package of the crimps (and obviously, choose the right crimps for the gauge of wire you're using). I'd advise making a few test crimps on scrap wire to make sure they won't come lose, and gently tug the connections you do make (they should fail right away).
From past experience (undergrad robotics competition) stuff invariably fails, stuff fails at competition, and you need to be the one to get it going ASAP (without it re-failing). Make sure you do a good job the first-go round, and layout the box (and wiring) neatly and possibly even more important, accessibly.
Hope this helps!
