Understanding Bed Leveling and Z-Calibration for 3D Printers

  • Thread starter Thread starter fog37
  • Start date Start date
  • Tags Tags
    3d
AI Thread Summary
Bed leveling and calibration are crucial for achieving optimal 3D printing results. Bed leveling refers to ensuring that the extruder tip maintains a consistent vertical distance from the print surface across all X and Y coordinates, rather than being level with the ground as measured by a bubble level. Z-calibration involves setting the extruder tip to a specific height above the print surface, typically around 100 microns, which can be verified through a 9-point test to ensure uniformity across the bed. The origin point, or (X,Y,Z) coordinates (0,0,0), is commonly set at the front left corner of the print bed in most CNC software, although this placement is somewhat arbitrary, as slicer software can accommodate different origin settings. Additionally, using a spring-loaded micrometer gauge can aid in achieving precise bed leveling, and adjustments can be made through various methods depending on the printer's construction. Autoleveling sensors can facilitate this process by automatically calibrating the bed.
fog37
Messages
1,566
Reaction score
108
TL;DR Summary
leveling 3D print surface for correct printing
Hello,
I am dealing with bed Leveling and calibration (I guess they are the same process) of my new 3D printer and I realized I am shaky on a few basic concepts:
  • Leveling: bed leveling does not mean that the building platform is leveled with respect to the ground, which is what a bubble level would measure...The print bed becomes correctly leveled when the extruder tip remains at a constant vertical distance Z away from the print surface as the extruder tip position, ideally for all possible X and Y coordinates, is moved across the printing surface and over all its points. The print bed may not be "leveled" using the bubble level but be "leveled" relative to the transverse motion of the extruder tip which, I guess, has its height automatically adjusted as the tip is scanned over the surface to maintain it at a constant height...Is that correct?
  • Z-calibration: I know that, for Z=0, the extruder tip is not actually touching the print surface but should be at nonzero vertical distance (~100 micron across all (X,Y) points on the bed). That is the Z-calibration which I think is accomplished via a 9-point test: the vertical extruder tip distance is checked and adjusted for 9 different and I guess all points in the area enclosed by those 9 points will also be Z-calibrated automatically...
  • Origin: where should the extruder tip be located with it is located at the origin O, the position with coordinates (X,Y,Z)= (0,0,0)? Should the origin O be at the center of the print bed? Or at the front left corner of printing bed?

Thank you!
 
Computer science news on Phys.org
fog37 said:
Summary:: leveling 3D print surface for correct printing

Hello,
I am dealing with bed Leveling and calibration (I guess they are the same process) of my new 3D printer and I realized I am shaky on a few basic concepts:
  • Leveling: bed leveling does not mean that the building platform is leveled with respect to the ground, which is what a bubble level would measure...The print bed becomes correctly leveled when the extruder tip remains at a constant vertical distance Z away from the print surface as the extruder tip position, ideally for all possible X and Y coordinates, is moved across the printing surface and over all its points. The print bed may not be "leveled" using the bubble level but be "leveled" relative to the transverse motion of the extruder tip which, I guess, has its height automatically adjusted as the tip is scanned over the surface to maintain it at a constant height...Is that correct?
  • Z-calibration: I know that, for Z=0, the extruder tip is not actually touching the print surface but should be at nonzero vertical distance (~100 micron across all (X,Y) points on the bed). That is the Z-calibration which I think is accomplished via a 9-point test: the vertical extruder tip distance is checked and adjusted for 9 different and I guess all points in the area enclosed by those 9 points will also be Z-calibrated automatically...
  • Origin: where should the extruder tip be located with it is located at the origin O, the position with coordinates (X,Y,Z)= (0,0,0)? Should the origin O be at the center of the print bed? Or at the front left corner of printing bed?

Thank you!
Levelling is usually done by attaching a spring-loaded micrometer gauge instead of extruder, and checking if it reads the same across whole bed. You can adjust bed level with set bolts, planing/sanding or epoxy coating, depending on details of your construction.

Most CNC software place origin in front left corner of the bed. It is a bit arbitrary though.
 
  • Like
Likes fog37
trurle said:
Levelling is usually done by attaching a spring-loaded micrometer gauge instead of extruder, and checking if it reads the same across whole bed. You can adjust bed level with set bolts, planing/sanding or epoxy coating, depending on details of your construction.

Most CNC software place origin in front left corner of the bed. It is a bit arbitrary though.
Thank you trurle. I guess the origin O location, the home position, does not matter because the slicer accounts for that.

My printer has an autoleveling sensor...
 
I came across a video regarding the use of AI/ML to work through complex datasets to determine complicated protein structures. It is a promising and beneficial use of AI/ML. AlphaFold - The Most Useful Thing AI Has Ever Done https://www.ebi.ac.uk/training/online/courses/alphafold/an-introductory-guide-to-its-strengths-and-limitations/what-is-alphafold/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AlphaFold https://deepmind.google/about/ Edit/update: The AlphaFold article in Nature John Jumper...
Thread 'Urgent: Physically repair - or bypass - power button on Asus laptop'
Asus Vivobook S14 flip. The power button is wrecked. Unable to turn it on AT ALL. We can get into how and why it got wrecked later, but suffice to say a kitchen knife was involved: These buttons do want to NOT come off, not like other lappies, where they can snap in and out. And they sure don't go back on. So, in the absence of a longer-term solution that might involve a replacement, is there any way I can activate the power button, like with a paperclip or wire or something? It looks...
Back
Top