Adding a remote switch to my electric scooter

AI Thread Summary
The discussion centers on adding a remote switch to an electric scooter to enhance security, as the existing on/off switch does not prevent unauthorized use. The user is considering a remote switch that operates on 10-14V DC, while the scooter's battery system has a maximum charge limit of 42V. Key questions include how to manage voltage discrepancies, the ability of RF signals to penetrate aluminum, and the minimal impact of standby current on battery life. Suggestions include using a hidden magnet-operated switch for added security without compromising the scooter's design. The conversation highlights the challenges of securing small vehicles against theft while maintaining their aesthetic appeal.
Hannemaster
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Hi Guys,
Im totally new here and I'm not even sure if this is the right forum, but I think there are a lot of people here who know all about electronics.

Ok so I bought an electric scooter. It has an on/off switch but no kind of security. So if I hook it up to a pole and leave, people can still turn it on. That's why I want a remote on/off switch which would allow me to disable the builtin switch. The top of the steering tube is quite easily removed which expose the on/off switch wiring.

this is the switch I was thinking about: remote switch they say the receiver works on 10-14V.(DC)

Now the scooter has a huge combination of batteries in it (3.6V ICR18650-M26 2600mAh Max 10A) and the specs say it has a battery charge limit of 42V. Now I don't think all that juice will flow through the builtin switch(will check with a multimeter soon. But what do I need if the voltage is lower or higher than the recommended 10-14V?

also the standby current is < 5MA, am I correct this is practically nothing?

so question 1: what to do when voltage doesn't match recommended receiver voltage?
questions 2: is a RF signal able to go through 1 or 2mm aluminum?
question 3: Am I correct that I won't even notice the standby current usage after a few hours?
question 4: if nobody tells me I'm crazy or stupid to even try this can someone guide me through which ports on the receiver I need to connect what. (yes I know where + and - goes but I don't really get the NC/COM/NO.
 
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Hannemaster said:
Hi Guys,
Im totally new here and I'm not even sure if this is the right forum, but I think there are a lot of people here who know all about electronics.

Ok so I bought an electric scooter. It has an on/off switch but no kind of security. So if I hook it up to a pole and leave, people can still turn it on. That's why I want a remote on/off switch which would allow me to disable the builtin switch. The top of the steering tube is quite easily removed which expose the on/off switch wiring.

this is the switch I was thinking about: remote switch they say the receiver works on 10-14V.(DC)

Now the scooter has a huge combination of batteries in it (3.6V ICR18650-M26 2600mAh Max 10A) and the specs say it has a battery charge limit of 42V. Now I don't think all that juice will flow through the builtin switch(will check with a multimeter soon. But what do I need if the voltage is lower or higher than the recommended 10-14V?

also the standby current is < 5MA, am I correct this is practically nothing?

so question 1: what to do when voltage doesn't match recommended receiver voltage?
questions 2: is a RF signal able to go through 1 or 2mm aluminum?
question 3: Am I correct that I won't even notice the standby current usage after a few hours?
question 4: if nobody tells me I'm crazy or stupid to even try this can someone guide me through which ports on the receiver I need to connect what. (yes I know where + and - goes but I don't really get the NC/COM/NO.
Welcome to the PF.

Why not just replace the simple switch with a locking switch? What does the current simple switch look like?

http://plywoodchair.com/wp-content/...ck-Replacement-Amusing-Design-Garage-Door.jpg
Garage-Door-Lock-Replacement-Amusing-Design-Garage-Door.jpg
 
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Mount a battery switch close to the battery - I would use a switch like this (meant for boats):
5408.jpg
Then your existing switch does all it is supposed to do, but you can disable everything with the battery switch.
 
Hannemaster said:
also the standby current is < 5MA, am I correct this is practically nothing?
This could be worth while taking into account if you intend to leave the device working for extremely long periods but a 10Ah battery would allow 10/5e-3 hours of operation (=2000hours). It's always worth doing the sums.
 
sophiecentaur said:
This could be worth while taking into account if you intend to leave the device working for extremely long periods but a 10Ah battery would allow 10/5e-3 hours of operation (=2000hours). It's always worth doing the sums.
Thanks!
Svein said:
Mount a battery switch close to the battery - I would use a switch like this (meant for boats):
View attachment 147061Then your existing switch does all it is supposed to do, but you can disable everything with the battery switch.
That would be an option if the design was not this clean and if there was room for something like this. That's why I want a remote. So it won't be visible and ruin the clean modern look. Thanks for your reply though!
 
Is there any place to hide a switch? Only you would know about it.
 
You can always beat the thieves by doing something non-standard. A magnet-operated switch underneath a plastic part of the body would be hidden and not easily found even after taking it all apart. No thief would consider carrying a magnet around on a thieving trip.
 
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Averagesupernova said:
Is there any place to hide a switch? Only you would know about it.
well the only place I can think of is inside the steering tube. That's why I was thinking about a remote rf or something like that.
sophiecentaur said:
You can always beat the thieves by doing something non-standard. A magnet-operated switch underneath a plastic part of the body would be hidden and not easily found even after taking it all apart. No thief would consider carrying a magnet around on a thieving trip.
that's actually a really good idea! I'll do some research about these kind of switches.
 
  • #10
Hannemaster said:
well the only place I can think of is inside the steering tube. That's why I was thinking about a remote rf or something like that.

that's actually a really good idea! I'll do some research about these kind of switches.
The problem with trying to secure a small bike is that a pair of bolt croppers can deal with any chain you could carry with you and it can be lifted into the back of a truck by two burly felons.
Best to have an old scruffy one that no one would want.
 
  • #11
sophiecentaur said:
The problem with trying to secure a small bike is that a pair of bolt croppers can deal with any chain you could carry with you and it can be lifted into the back of a truck by two burly felons.
Best to have an old scruffy one that no one would want.
true. The reason I want to lock it because I want to go into the city and when I go into a shop I'll leave it there for like 10min, would be nice if I could just remove a magnet or switch. I won't leave it there for long or overnight.
 
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