Troubleshooting Neutral Cables in Electrical Circuits

  • Thread starter Thread starter ffp
  • Start date Start date
  • Tags Tags
    Circuit Neutral
AI Thread Summary
The discussion revolves around troubleshooting neutral cables during a voltage conversion from 127V to 220V in a residential electrical circuit. The user struggled to identify the correct neutral cable among multiple options and noted that removing all neutral cables still allowed the outlets to function. Participants emphasized the importance of hiring a qualified electrician for safety, highlighting that electrical work can pose significant risks, including fire hazards. The consensus was that such tasks should not be attempted without proper knowledge and expertise. The thread was ultimately locked due to safety concerns.
ffp
Messages
96
Reaction score
5
Last weekend I was in my friend house to change an outlet from 127V to 220V. This means changing the neutral terminal from the bar inside the electrical board (dont know if that's the right rem in english) into a phase. However, I couldn't identify which neutral cable was from the circuit I wanted to change, since 4 different cables had continuity with the outlet.
Also, when I removed all the neutral cables from the bar, including the one that comes from the concessionary, his house outlets were still working.

How is that possible? Sorry if I couldn't be clear, english is not my native idiom. I can explain further if needed.
 
Engineering news on Phys.org
ffp said:
Last weekend I was in my friend house to change an outlet from 127V to 220V. This means changing the neutral terminal from the bar inside the electrical board (dont know if that's the right rem in english) into a phase. However, I couldn't identify which neutral cable was from the circuit I wanted to change, since 4 different cables had continuity with the outlet.
Also, when I removed all the neutral cables from the bar, including the one that comes from the concessionary, his house outlets were still working.

How is that possible? Sorry if I couldn't be clear, english is not my native idiom. I can explain further if needed.
You need to hire a qualified electrician. If you have to ask this question, you don't have the knowledge required to insure safety. Some things in this world just have to be done right. This doesn't sound like a DIY project.

I have no doubt that someone here will answer your question, but it won't be me. I don't want any part of this.
 
  • Like
Likes Dale, russ_watters, berkeman and 1 other person
DaveE said:
You need to hire a qualified electrician.
I'm afraid this is the best recommendation we can give. Electricity is one of the major causes for fire in households. And this is true for 110V as it is for 220V. Please consult a local expert, and not strangers on the internet.

Thread locked.
 
  • Like
Likes dlgoff, DaveE, berkeman and 1 other person
Hey guys. I have a question related to electricity and alternating current. Say an alien fictional society developed electricity, and settled on a standard like 73V AC current at 46 Hz. How would appliances be designed, and what impact would the lower frequency and voltage have on transformers, wiring, TVs, computers, LEDs, motors, and heating, assuming the laws of physics and technology are the same as on Earth?
While I was rolling out a shielded cable, a though came to my mind - what happens to the current flow in the cable if there came a short between the wire and the shield in both ends of the cable? For simplicity, lets assume a 1-wire copper wire wrapped in an aluminum shield. The wire and the shield has the same cross section area. There are insulating material between them, and in both ends there is a short between them. My first thought, the total resistance of the cable would be reduced...
I used to be an HVAC technician. One time I had a service call in which there was no power to the thermostat. The thermostat did not have power because the fuse in the air handler was blown. The fuse in the air handler was blown because there was a low voltage short. The rubber coating on one of the thermostat wires was chewed off by a rodent. The exposed metal in the thermostat wire was touching the metal cabinet of the air handler. This was a low voltage short. This low voltage...
Back
Top