Resistor Wattage: Find Out If You Need Bigger Resistor

  • Thread starter Thread starter david90
  • Start date Start date
  • Tags Tags
    Resistor Wattage
AI Thread Summary
In a circuit using a ceramic wire wound resistor to drop input voltage, the resistor is hot despite calculations showing power dissipation is below its wattage rating. It's important to verify the voltage across the resistor and consider its temperature specifications, as even a small amount of power can generate significant heat. Operating a power resistor close to its rating may lead to premature failure, so selecting a resistor with at least double the expected power rating is advisable. Alternatives like a buck DC-DC converter could reduce power loss and heat generation. Ultimately, if the resistor remains within safe operating conditions and does not cause damage, it may be acceptable to continue using it.
david90
Messages
311
Reaction score
2
I have a circuit that uses a resistor to drop the input voltage. From my calculation, the power dissipation thru the resistor is less than it's wattage rating but yet the resistor is hot to the touch. Should I use a bigger resistor because it's too hot to the touch or should I keep using it because the power dissipation is within spec? The resistor is the ceramic wire wound type.
 
Engineering news on Phys.org
I admit I have little experience with this. But you realize that another resistor will get as hot, because it needs to transport the dissipated energy, unless it is bigger (more surface) or has cooling ribs. I would start by checking that the voltage across the resistor is correct. You could check the temperature specs and see if the resistor should be cooled. Maybe you could show how us you use the resistor, and how you calculate the power dissipation and maybe tell us what size and rating it has so we can see if it looks right. Also: what type of voltages/currents are we talking about?

Otherwise I don't think anyone here would tell you that you cannot use the resistor if the specs say you can.
 
david90 said:
I have a circuit that uses a resistor to drop the input voltage. From my calculation, the power dissipation thru the resistor is less than it's wattage rating but yet the resistor is hot to the touch. Should I use a bigger resistor because it's too hot to the touch or should I keep using it because the power dissipation is within spec? The resistor is the ceramic wire wound type.

What is the application? Why are you burning up all that power? What voltages and current are we talking about here?

Depending on the application, it might be better just to use a buck DC-DC stage there, to drop the voltage and dissipate very little power...
 
Most ceramic wire wound power resistors:
If you can touch resistor and not burn yourself, then resistor is running cool.
Check resistor manufacture's data sheet for how hot resistor should be at maximum power.
 
Even a Watt or two can get an object pretty hot - take a lightbulb filament, for instance. There's nothing wrong with a bit of 'brute force and ignorance'. A resistive dropper may well be the most convenient way to lose some volts. If it gets hot and does not damage then that may be quite OK. A hefty transistor in series may achieve the same thing at greater cost!
 
It is not necessarily unsafe for a power resistor to be hot to the touch. However, in most cases it is not safe to operate a power resistor at or close to it's power rating. From Wikipedia:
Note that the nominal power rating of a resistor is not the same as the power that it can safely dissipate in practical use. Air circulation and proximity to a circuit board, ambient temperature, and other factors can reduce acceptable dissipation significantly. Rated power dissipation may be given for an ambient temperature of 25 °C in free air. Inside an equipment case at 60 °C, rated dissipation will be significantly less; if we are dissipating a bit less than the maximum figure given by the manufacturer we may still be outside the safe operating area, and courting premature failure.
The general rule of thumb is to select a power resistor whose power rating is at least double the power it will be expected to handle.
 
I used to be an HVAC technician. One time I had a service call in which there was no power to the thermostat. The thermostat did not have power because the fuse in the air handler was blown. The fuse in the air handler was blown because there was a low voltage short. The rubber coating on one of the thermostat wires was chewed off by a rodent. The exposed metal in the thermostat wire was touching the metal cabinet of the air handler. This was a low voltage short. This low voltage...
I am not an electrical engineering student, but a lowly apprentice electrician. I learn both on the job and also take classes for my apprenticeship. I recently wired my first transformer and I understand that the neutral and ground are bonded together in the transformer or in the service. What I don't understand is, if the neutral is a current carrying conductor, which is then bonded to the ground conductor, why does current only flow back to its source and not on the ground path...
While I was rolling out a shielded cable, a though came to my mind - what happens to the current flow in the cable if there came a short between the wire and the shield in both ends of the cable? For simplicity, lets assume a 1-wire copper wire wrapped in an aluminum shield. The wire and the shield has the same cross section area. There are insulating material between them, and in both ends there is a short between them. My first thought, the total resistance of the cable would be reduced...
Back
Top