As
@jrmichler shows in the diagram, with such a small tank there is no need for a flexible tube and float. The flexible tube and float would only be needed for large industrial reservoir tanks where the access port is some distance vertically and horizontally from the high point.
I would use annealed copper tube that is easy to bend into a long gentle curve. Cut a slight Vee notch in the end of the tube so it cannot accidentally seal flat against the upper inside surface of the vessel.
The tube might be extended for larger vessels by sliding a length of clear vinyl tube onto the end, maybe with a float.
Place a swivel connection where the Tee assembly connects to the vessel, not at the compression fitting. I would use a Tee connector so I could be sure of the orientation of the internal tube. You should be able to hit the inside top of the vessel with the tip of the tube, and feel on the outside where it is contacting the inner surface.
The compression fitting should have a brass olive that clamps onto the tube. Normally the tube end would rest against an internal step in the fitting, but since in this design the tube passes through the assembly, you will need to carefully drill or bore out that step without damaging the olive seat. The olives should not be reused once they have been clamped onto a tube.
A valve to control the venting of air will be connected to the external end of the tube. Close that valve when water flows clear without air bubbles.
Check that the pressure ratings of the Tee, compression fittings, and valve all meet the required 20 bar or 300 psi. Most low cost pipe fittings will fall short of that. For higher pressures I would select all parts from the range of standard 1/2” and 1/4" BSP hydraulic fittings.